Welt shoe and welting therefor



March 2, 1943. N. B. CUTLER 2,312,527

WELT SHOE AND WELTING THEREFOR Filed June 5, 1941 Patentecl Mar. 2, 1943 WELT SHOE AND WELTING THEREFOR Nelson B. Cutler, Cynwyd, Pa., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation,

Flemington,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application June 3, 1941, Serial No. 396,439

15 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in welt shoes and to improvements in welting for use in shoes.

The invention provides a strip of Welting comprising a strip of textile fabric, for example tubular fabric such as braided tubular shoe lace material. The textile fabric strip may be used to constitute the entire welt or it may be preat- .ached to a strip of leather welting at the side which is to be exposed to view in the finished shoe so that a composite welt strip is provided. In either case, the fabric strip will impart a novel and stylish appearance to the shoe and in case the fabric strip alone is used as the welt a substantial saving will be effected in the cost of making the shoe.

Considered in another aspect, invention is also to be recognized as residing in a shoe embodying, in its construction, a welt comprising a strip of tubular fabric.

-The invention will be explained with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which Fig. 1 is a View, partially in cross-section and partially in perspective, of a composite welt strip embodying features of my invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary View, partially in cross-section and partially in perspective, of a shoe in which the composite welt strip shown in Fig. 1 is employed;

Fig. 3 is a view, similar to Fig. 1, of a composite welt strip of modified construction;

Fig. 4 is'a View similar to Fig. 2 but illustrating a shoe embodying the composite welt strip shown in Fig. 3; and a r Fig. 5 is a fragmentary view, partially in crosssection and partially in perspective, of a shoe embodying a novel welt strip consisting entirely of a strip of fabric.

Referring to the drawing, I have shown in Fig. 1 a composite welt strip comprising a strip Ill which may be made of leather or leather substitute material and a strip I2 of textile fabric which is preattached to the strip I0 by means of a single line of stitches I4. As shown, the strip I2 is a strip of braided tubular fabric such as commercial tubular shoe lace material. However, the strands of which the fabric strip is composed may be knitted, woven or otherwise fabricated. Desirably, and as indicated in the drawing, some of the strands or threads constituting the fabric strip may be difierentiated from others in color, or other characteristics and so disposed with respect to the others as to produce a decorative pattern which will. add to the novel and stylish appearance of the shoe. The fabric strip I2 is applied to the strip II) in a collapsed or substantially flattened condition and preferably the stitches I4 extend through the inner marginal portion of the flattened strip. The flattening of the tubular strip provides a strip having inturned lateral marginal portions providing an integral two-layer formation adjacent to each lateral edge of the strip and insures that the edge which is outermost when the strip is incorporated in a shoe will have a folded or finished appearance which will contribute to the attractiveness of the shoe. The strip I2 may, however, be secured to the strip I0 otherwise than by stitching, for example, by the use of suitable adhesive. As shown, the strip II) is provided with a stitch groove I6 on its lower side for the reception of inseam stitches and its inner lateral margin is beveled, as indicated at I8, to facilitate its application to the shoe bottom. To enhance the attractive appearance of the shoe, the upper side of the welt strip I0 is also provided with an outer beveled surface 20.

The above-described composite welt strip is adapted for use in the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes such as the shoe shown in Fig. 2, the shoe at the time when the welt is applied to it consisting of a ribbed insole'22 (Fig. 2) and an upper 24, these parts having been assembled on a last (not shown) and the margin of the upper having been secured in overlasted position upon the feather 26 and against the rib 28 of the insole. The composite welt is secured to the bottom of the lasted shoe by means of an inseam comprising stitches 30 which are received in the stitch groove I6 of the strip I0. After the inseamed materials have been trimmed and a suitable bottom filler 32 has been applied, an outsole 34 is laid upon the bottom of the shoe and secured to the composite welt strip by outseam stitches 36 which extend through the strip I0 and also through the strip I2. As shown, the outseam stitches 36 are located near the edge of the fabric strip I2 and serve to form an outer marginal bead 38 which imparts an attractive and decorative edge finish to the fabric strip. The fabric extends inwardly between the strip I2 and the portion of the upper which underlies the insole feather 26 and the stitches I4 are covered and obscured from view, by the upper 24.

The composite welt strip may be made as shown in Fig. 3 wherein the fabric strip I20 is somewhat wider than the fabric strip shown in Fig. l and is positioned so that it extends a substantial distance inwardly of the stitches I4 by which it is secured to the strip I II. In applying the composite welting shown in Fig. 3 to a shoe the inner marginal portion of the fabric strip I20 is turned upwardly in the course of the inseaming operation so that it will overlap and lie closely against the upper, as indicated at M] in Fig. 4, thereby producing an effect similar to that resulting from the use of so-called storm or calk welting.

As shown in Fig. 5,, the fabric strip [22, in a collapsed or substantially flattened condition, constitutes the entire welt, the flattened fabric strip being secured by inseam stitches 30 to the. upper 24, and the insole 22 and the outsole 34 being secured by outseam stitches 36 to the fabric strip. A substantial saving is effected by the use of such a welt strip as shown in Fig. 5, due. to the no edge finishing operation is required before or after attachment of the strip. On account of its inherent flexibilitysuch a welt strip is particularly advantageous since it will not tend to stiffen the shoe. Moreover, because 'ofits flattened tubular form, a secure anchorageis afforded for both the inseam and outseam stitches and a doubled orrolled-over edge is provided at the outer margin of the strip which imparts a distinctive finished appearance to. the shoe.

Advantageously, the fabric strip is coated or impregnated with a moisture repelling substance which may be applied in liquid form and which when dried will impart a durable finish to the strip and tend to keep its exposed surfaces clean and attractive in appearance during the wearing of the shoe in which it is incorporated. Various compounds of cellulose may be employed to provide a protective coatingfor the fabric. strip or to impregnate and strengthen the strip but I prefer to use pyroxylin cement which, when hardened, will strengthen and stiffen the fabric. and tend to preserve its beaded edge formation as well. as its substantially collapsed or flattened condition inwardly of its edge portions. .In any case it is desirable to coat or impregnate the fabric strip with material which is. transparent after it has become hardened or set so that the. texture or pattern of the. fabric Will not be. obscured. The use of. such reinforcing and protective. substance is. particularly desirable. in cases where the inner portion of the fabric strip is tobe upturned as in Fig. 4, since it will tend'to retain the. upturned portion in close. engagement with. the shoe upper and to. prevent moisture from. reaching. the inseam stitches. In Fig. 4, the stiffening and moisture. repelling substance. is. indicated by means of stippling as having permeated the entire structure of the fabric. Advantageously, the coating or impregnating. of the fabric strip will: be accomplished. after the strip has been applied tothe Shoe'but it may sometimes. be desirable to treat the strip. with a moisture repellent and/or stiffening medium before the. strip has been appliedto theshoe. V f

, Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secureby Letters Patent of the United States is: 4 1. In a shoe having an upper, an insole, and an outsole the margin. of which projects. outwardly beyond the upper, a welt comprising. a strip of tubular fabric which is exposed, to view. above the projecting marginoftheoutsolc, an. inner row. of stitches securing together the welt, theupper and theinsole, and an outer row of stitches. securing he rems t t e welt he. sti c or; said outer tend n hr ug ai fabric expandable:

shaped to form a rounded bead, and an outsole secured by outseam stitches to' said welt, said outseam stitches extending through both plies of said flattened tubular strip along the inner side of said bead and serving to maintain the rounded formation of the bead.

if. A welt shoe having a ribbed insole, an upper,

and a welt, said consisting of a strip of fabric having inturned lateral marginal portions providing' an integral two-layer formation adjacent to each lateral'edge of the strip, inseam stitches securing said strip, and the upper to. the insole,

and an outer row. of stitches securing the outsole to said strip.

5. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, and

an outsole the. margin of which projects outwardly beyond the upper, a welt overlying the proi ing margin of" the. outsole, a substantially flattened strip of tubular fabric upon the. upper side of said Welt, inseam stitches securing the upper, the insole and said welt together, and outseam stitches securing the outsole to said. Welt, said outseam stitches extending. through said flattened strip from one. side. to the other thereof and; serving to maintain the strip permanentl-yin flattenedcondition.

6;. 'A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, and

an outsole the. margin fwhichprojects outwardbeyond the upper, a. welt overlying the. pi-O- jectmgmargin of theoutsole, a substantially flattened strip of tubular fabric upon the. upper side of said welt, inseam stitches securin the? upper, the ins le and said; welt together, and outseam stitches securing the. outsole. to. said welt; said outseam stitches extending through said. flatt ned t p. from one side to. the other thereof, said outseam stitches being located near theouter d e t t e str p nd: imparting. a beaded format pn tc aid ed e 7=. In a shoe comprising an upper, an. insole, and an outsole the margin 0t which projects outward r be nd the, upper, a Welt overlying. the projecting margin of the. outsole, a substantially att ned; str p, of tubular fabric secured. to. the upper side. of the welt, inseam. stitches. securing e he e we t. he upper, and the insole; and outseam. t th ssecurix1a the outsole to; the welt.

In; a. shoe compri n upper, an insole, 2d. a OlJlSQli? 31 ma n o 'which. projects out, w rdly eyqmi the Hence We t; ov lying the Praie i s m r n. c eemii q e amma-1y d. St of t u a fabric: q r a i lt ns am; st es secur n a ate e. at; he p er. and he nsole. outseam stitches. Se. curing thEyQlliSQlj-l. to the welt, and: a row of stitches between said; inseam, stitches; and: said outseam. stitches securing-said. strip tosaid welt.

9.; A shoe comprising; an. upper... an ins01e,a

welt, inseam stitches securing together the welt, the upper, and the insole, a strip of tubular fabric in a substantially collapsed condition overlying the upper face of the welt and having an upturned inner marginal portion lying against the upper and closing the crease between the upper and the welt, a row of stitches securing said strip to said welt at the base of said upturned portion, an outsole, and outseam stitches securing the outsole to said welt and to said strip.

10. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, a welt, inseam stitches securing together the welt, the upper, and the insole, a strip of tubular fabric in a substantially collapsed condition overlying the upper face of the welt and having an upturned inner marginal portion lying against the upper and closing the crease between the upper and the welt, a row of stitches securing said strip to said welt at the base of said upturned portion, an outsole, and outseam stitches securing the outsole to said welt and to said strip, said strip being impregnated with stiffening material tending to maintain its inner marginal portion in upturned position.

11. A composite welt strip comprising a body strip having a marginal portion fitted for attachment by inseam stitches to a shoe, and a fabric strip of substantially flattened tubular form secured to one side of said body strip.

12. A composite welt strip comprising a body strip having an inner marginal portion fitted for attachment by inseam stitches to an upper and an insole, a fabric strip of substantially flattened tubular form overlying the side ofsaid body portion which is to face the upper, and a row of stitches extending through the inner marginal portion of said fabric strip and securing it to said body strip.

13. A composite welt strip for shoes comprising a leather strip, and a strip of braided tubular fabric secured in a substantially flattened condition to one side of said leather strip.

14. A composite welt strip for shoes comprising a leather strip, a strip of braided tubular fabric secured in a substantially flattened condition to one side of said leather strip, and a transparent protective coating upon said fabric strip.

15. A composite welt strip for shoes comprising a leather strip, and a flattened strip of tubular fabric secured to and substantially covering one side of said leather strip.

NELSON B. CUTLER. 

